Fabrics & Mills
The right fabric depends on when and where you'll wear it.
Fabric Basics
Weight is measured in grams per meter. Lighter cloth is cooler and drapes softly; heavier cloth is warmer, holds its shape and resists wrinkles.
| Weight | Range | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Light | 220–260 g (7.5–9 oz) | Florida's year-round range, summer, travel |
| Medium | 260–300 g (9–10.5 oz) | The classic all-season weight; trips north |
| Heavy | 300 g+ (10.5 oz+) | Flannels, tweeds and overcoats for real winters |
Super numbers (Super 110s, 130s, 150s) describe how fine the wool fiber is. Higher numbers feel softer and more luxurious but are more delicate. For a suit you wear every week, Super 110s to 150s is the sweet spot.
Weave changes how a fabric looks and breathes. An open weave like fresco or hopsack breathes far better than a dense one at the same weight.
Year-Round Wool
The foundation of a custom wardrobe. Smooth worsted wool in a medium weight is comfortable most of the year, travels well and recovers from wrinkles overnight on a hanger. Ask about stretch wools and "four seasons" collections.
Summer Weights
Blends of wool, silk and linen are the jackets clients ask about most: wool for structure and wrinkle recovery, silk for a soft hand and subtle sheen, linen for texture and breathability. They look sharper and wrinkle far less than pure linen, in summer colors like sand, sky blue, olive and soft checks.
- Tropical wool: a lightweight wool for summer suits
- Fresco and high-twist wool: open, springy and wrinkle resistant; excellent for travel
- Mohair blends: crisp with a subtle sheen; sharp for evenings and weddings
- Linen, cotton and seersucker: the coolest, most relaxed options
- Bamboo: silky and cool, a favorite for Florida jackets and dinner jackets
Stretch & Performance
Some mills twist and weave pure wool so it stretches without any synthetic fiber. A small amount of elastane (2–7%) adds more give for trousers and travel suits. Wrinkle-free shirt cottons come out of the wash smooth.
Shirtings
- Poplin: smooth, crisp and light; the classic dress shirt
- Twill: soft, drapes well and resists wrinkles
- Oxford: textured and sturdy, great for button-downs
- End-on-end: fine texture that gives solid colors depth
- Jersey knit: knitted like a polo, cut like a dress shirt
Fall & Winter
- Flannel: soft, brushed wool with warmth and a matte finish
- Tweed: textured and full of character for sport coats and overcoats
- Cashmere and cashmere blends: exceptional softness and warmth
- Corduroy and moleskin: warm, casual trousers and jackets
Pricing
The fabric you choose sets most of the price. Construction, fit and personalization are included at every level, and we'll show you options across a range of fabrics at your appointment.
The Mills We Work With
We source from many of the world's finest mills, some weaving for over a hundred years. See something you love on a mill's website? Send us a screenshot and we'll check availability.
- Loro Piana
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Dormeuil
- Scabal
- Vitale Barberis Canonico
- Reda
- Guabello
- Marzotto
- Caccioppoli
- Ariston
- Fox Brothers
- Thomas Mason (shirting)
- Gladson
- Carnet
Want to go deeper? Read Arron's Guide to style, fabric and fit.
Ready for Your Best Fit?
Book an appointment and we'll guide you through fabric, fit and design, from first meeting to final delivery.
Request an appointment