Fit matters more than fabric, brand or price. A great fit makes a simple navy jacket look expensive.

Shoulders First

The shoulder seam should end where your shoulder ends. No dimple below the seam and no overhang. Shoulders are the hardest thing to alter, so we get them right from the start.

Chest and Button

Buttoned, the front should lie flat with no pulling "X" around the button. You should be able to slide a flat hand inside comfortably.

Length

A classic jacket covers your seat. A slightly shorter cut looks more modern, especially on sport coats.

Sleeves

Let about a quarter to a half inch of shirt cuff show. That small line of white is one of the clearest signs of a tailored jacket.

  • Collar sits against your shirt collar, with no gap at the back
  • Back is smooth, with no ripples across the shoulder blades
  • You can reach forward and raise your arms comfortably